Hair dye developer, also known as oxidizing agent or hydrogen peroxide, is a key ingredient in permanent hair coloring and bleaching processes. It acts to open up the hair cuticle and interact with the color molecules in dye to deposit or lift color.
Developer is available in different volumes or strengths, such as 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. The higher the developer volume, the higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide it contains. This makes it more powerful in lifting natural hair pigment or depositing artificial color.
Developer has a limited shelf life and will eventually go bad due to chemical decomposition. But how long does opened or unopened developer last? And what are signs it has gone bad?
Does Unopened Hair Developer Expire?
Unopened, properly stored developer can last 12 months or longer past its printed expiration date. However, here are some general guidelines on shelf life:
– 10 or 20 volume developer: Up to 3 years
– 30 or 40 volume developer: Up to 2 years
The shelf life depends on the ingredients and packaging. Salon professional brands formulated without stabilizers may have a shorter shelf life of 1 year. Drugstore boxed kits with powdered developer may last 2-3 years.
Always check the product instructions as shelf life varies across brands. Store in a cool, dark place as light and heat can accelerate its deterioration.
While potentially still effective beyond the labeled expiry date, very old developer may not work as well. Hair coloring results can turn out uneven or less predictable.
Does Opened Developer Go Bad?
Once opened, the shelf life decreases significantly. This is because developer starts deteriorating through oxidation and breakdown of hydrogen peroxide molecules.
General timelines for opened developer:
– 10 volume developer: Lasts 3-6 months
– 20 volume developer: Lasts 2-3 months
– 30 or 40 volume developer: Lasts 1-2 months
Higher strength developers contain more hydrogen peroxide so they degrade quicker when exposed to air and light. To maximize opened shelf life:
– Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Refrigeration can help prolong freshness.
– Never transfer to a container that held other chemicals. Cross-contamination can ruin developer.
– Write the opening date on the bottle.
How to Tell if Developer Has Gone Bad
Don’t rely on expiration dates alone to determine if developer is still effective. Check the product for the following signs of deterioration:
Change in Color
Fresh developer is clear and colorless. As it starts going bad, the liquid may turn slightly pink, orange, or yellow. This discoloration indicates oxidization and chemical decomposition.
Avoid using developer that is no longer clear or white. It will likely not work properly.
Change in Scent
New unopened developer has little to no scent. Opened developer may have a slightly chemical odor.
A strong pungent or irritating smell means the product has oxidized and become unstable. The unpleasant scent means avoid use.
Change in Texture
Good developer should have a thin, watery consistency. Over time, it may become thick, stringy, or gloopy.
The change in texture demonstrates decreasing hydrogen peroxide content. The developer will no longer mix and function normally.
Crystallization
Tiny white crystals or grains throughout the liquid are a telltale sign developer has not only gone bad but become potentially dangerous to use.
Crystallization occurs when hydrogen peroxide molecules break down into water and oxygen gas. The product is now highly unstable and improper to apply to hair.
Decrease in Volume
You may notice the container is less than full, despite not having used it yet. Evaporation of the hydrogen peroxide causes the liquid to shrink in volume. The more empty space, the more degraded it is.
No Bubbling Reaction
Mix a small amount of old developer with hair dye or bleach powder. If it doesn’t froth or bubble, this signals very low hydrogen peroxide levels. Discard and buy a fresh bottle.
How to Properly Store Developer
To maximize developer’s potency and longevity either sealed or opened, be sure to:
– Select an airtight, opaque plastic container kept away from light. Dark glass also works well.
– Always keep in a cool place. Refrigeration will prolong freshness once opened.
– Never transfer developer to a container that previously stored other hair chemicals.
– Write the opening date on the bottle with marker.
– Keep lid tightly sealed when not in use.
– Wipe and clean bottle thoroughly around the rim before resealing.
– Avoid extreme heat or freezing temperatures during storage.
– Keep the container off bathroom shelves or other steamy areas.
– Store at room temperature when bringing chilled developer back to use.
– Shake or stir well before each use to redistribute any settled contents.
Safe Hair Developer Disposal
Hair dye developer contains hydrogen peroxide which can be hazardous when contaminated or degraded. Here are some tips for safe disposal once you confirm it’s gone bad:
– Do not pour down the drain. It can react with pipes and metals.
– Mix with an acidic neutralizer such as vinegar or lemon juice to stabilize.
– Allow the neutralized liquid to sit for a few hours to let reactions complete.
– Pour the neutralized developer into an outdoor garden. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into oxygen and water.
– Absorb and wrap up any remaining liquid in paper towel or newspaper. Throw in regular trash.
– For larger amounts, contact your city about hazardous household waste disposal.
– Never mix old developer with other beauty products or chemicals before disposal. This can create dangerous reactions.
What to Do If You Used Bad Developer
If you applied developer that you later realized was expired, here’s what to watch out for:
– Hair damage: Bad developer can leave hair feeling dry, brittle, crunchy, or mushy rather than strong and resilient.
– Uneven results: With poor developer, hair color can turn out spotty, blotchy, or just “off”.
– Skin irritation: Expired developer can cause stinging, redness, and itching on the scalp or along the hairline. Rinse immediately if this occurs.
– Lack of lift or deposit: Old developer won’t properly lift natural pigment or deposit artificial color. Results will be disappointing.
– Strange chemical odors: If you notice a really strong smell during or after application, it indicates the developer went bad. Rinse and shampoo several times.
Most negative effects are temporary and subside after a few washes. But badly damaged hair may need treatment from a professional. Always conduct a patch test next time before applying unfamiliar developer to your whole head.
What to Use Instead of Bad Developer
If you realize your developer is past its prime, do not use it! Here are some alternative options:
– Buy new developer: This is the best solution. Match the identical volume and brand if possible.
– Use lower strength developer: If you only have 20 volume on hand but need 30, use the 20 rather than old 30 volume. This may affect results though.
– Dilute higher strength developer: For example, mix equal parts 40 volume and water to simulate 20 volume.
– Postpone: Wait until you can purchase fresh developer rather than use questionable product.
– Seek professional help: Have a stylist apply professional hair color using good quality developer.
Do not attempt to substitute developer with other household products! Hydrogen peroxide solutions are formulated specifically for hair to avoid damage.
Ways to Use Up Old Developer
If you have a large supply of developer that’s nearing expiration or recently opened, here are some smart ways to use it up quickly:
– Split between friends or family: Share part of the bottle if others also need developer for home hair color.
– Multiprocess: Use higher than normal proportions of developer to process hair. Always start with a patch test first.
– Full highlight: Apply to all hair instead of just highlights to empty more product. Exercise caution to avoid damage.
– Color refresh: Use more frequent root touch ups or full color treatments. Time between applications can be 4-6 weeks instead of 8 weeks.
– Bleach bath: Lighten all hair with a dilute bleach and developer mixture. Monitor development closely.
– Tone, tone, tone: Perform toning services more often to neutralize brassiness and brighten color results.
– Clean hair tools: Developer removes residual hair dye from combs, brushes, bowls. Rinse equipment thoroughly.
– Disinfect surfaces: Hydrogen peroxide is a mild disinfectant. Wipe bathroom surfaces to kill germs but rinse thoroughly afterwards.
– Hydrogen peroxide baths: Add a small amount to a warm foot bath and soak feet to soften skin. Rinse feet well after dipping.
– Household oxidizer: Add a bit to laundry wash cycles as a booster. Be sure to dilute as high concentrations can damage fabrics.
– Garden pest control: Some gardeners lightly spray plants with diluted developer to kill fungal growths, mites, and insects. Rinse edible plants thoroughly afterwards.
FAQs – Developer Shelf Life & Storage
Does developer expire if the cap is never opened?
Yes, though unopened developer lasts significantly longer, around 2-3 years. Exposure to oxygen is what degrades hydrogen peroxide over time. An unopened container has less air introduced initially. But the chemical reaction eventually starts deteriorating product quality.
Can I mix old and new developer together?
It’s best not to mix old and new. The expired developer can react with the fresh product and accelerate deterioration. Discard old supply and start a new bottle.
Can I reseal opened developer between uses?
Yes, you can close and store opened developer between uses for touch ups. Make sure to seal the bottle tightly. Refrigeration helps prolong freshness for a few months. Always shake or stir before reusing.
Will expired developer damage my hair?
Using long expired or contaminated developer can potentially lead to hair dryness, breakage, and discoloration. Sticking to unexpired product minimizes hair health risks.
Is it necessary to buy the exact same brand of developer each time?
No, you can switch brands. But using the same volume strength is important for consistent results. Always do a patch test when applying new product.
The Bottom Line
Hair dye developer has a limited shelf life both sealed and opened. While manufacturer expiration dates offer some guidance, also look for changes in smell, texture, color, and performance.
Store developer properly in an opaque, airtight container away from heat and sunlight. Refrigeration can help prolong freshness once opened.
Bad developer often results in hair damage and coloring disappointments. Dispose of degraded developer carefully and never use beauty products that show signs of deterioration.
With proper storage and handling, hair dye developer can remain effective for years unopened or months when opened. But once it shows signs of going bad, it’s crucial to replace it with fresh product.
