If you’ve noticed brown, dead spots in your lawn, you’re not alone. Many homeowners face issues with lawn disease and death each year. A dying lawn can be caused by a number of factors, from improper mowing and watering to diseases and pests. Read on to learn the most common reasons lawns turn brown and die, along with solutions to restore your grass to its former green glory.
Quick Answers
Here are some quick answers to common questions about brown, dying lawns:
What causes lawn disease and death?
The main causes include:
- Improper mowing – cutting too short, dull blades, etc.
- Under or over watering
- Compacted soil
- Disease – fungal infections, etc.
- Pests – grubs, chinch bugs, etc.
- Poor drainage
- Too much shade
- Improper fertilization
How can I fix a dying lawn?
Tips to fix a dying lawn include:
- Aerate and dethatch to improve soil
- Water deeply 1-2 times per week
- Mow to proper height – 3″ for cool season grass
- Overseed bare spots
- Apply fertilizer and pest/disease control products
- Improve drainage and reduce shade
What is the fastest way to revive lawn?
The fastest ways to bring a lawn back to health include:
- Overseeding bare areas
- Applying fast-acting fertilizer
- Using disease control fungicides
- Iron supplements for quick green-up
- Adjusting watering schedule
Causes of Lawn Death and Disease
If you look closely at the brown spots and patches in your lawn, you can often determine the cause and find solutions. Here are some of the most common culprits of lawn damage:
Improper Mowing
Believe it or not, how you mow your lawn can have a big impact on its health. Cutting the grass too short stresses the plants and allows weeds to invade. Dull mower blades tear and shred grass rather than cutting cleanly. Here are some proper mowing tips:
- Never cut off more than 1/3 of the grass blade length at a time
- Mow cool season grasses like fescue and bluegrass to 3-4″ height
- Warm season grasses like bermuda can go even shorter – 1.5-2.5″
- Always keep mower blades sharp – replace as needed
- Change mowing patterns to prevent ruts
Excessive Thatch Buildup
Thatch is a layer of dead grass stems and roots that accumulates on the soil surface. A little thatch is normal, but too much can block water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil and grass roots. Signs of excessive thatch include spongy lawns, increased water runoff, and roots growing in the thatch layer rather than the soil. Dethatching or core aeration can remove excess thatch.
Compacted Soil
Soil compaction occurs when grass is mowed or walked on repeatedly, compressing the soil particles together. Compacted soils have reduced pore space, which decreases oxygen levels and makes it harder for roots to grow and access water and nutrients. Aeration perforates the soil with small holes to alleviate compaction. Topdressing with compost also helps.
Over or Under Watering
Proper lawn watering is crucial for healthy grass. Overwatering increases fungal disease risk and leaches nutrients from the soil. Underwatering causes drought stress. Here are tips for optimal watering:
- Water deeply 1-2 times per week, moistening the top 6-8″ of soil
- Early morning is best to reduce evaporation
- Adjust watering based on weather, more in hot and dry periods
- Infrequent deep watering encourages deeper root growth
Disease
Lawn diseases can quickly kill grass or leave unsightly spots. Common lawn fungal diseases include brown patch, dollar spot, gray leaf spot, rust, and powdery mildew. Control disease with proper mowing, watering, fertilization, and fungicide applications.
Insects and Other Pests
Underground pests like grubs, mole crickets, and wireworms munch on grass roots, while aboveground invaders like chinch bugs and armyworms attack blades and stems. Identify pests and apply appropriate insecticides for control.
Poor Drainage
Standing water or chronically wet areas of lawn can drown grass roots and encourage disease. Improve drainage through aeration, grading, addressing compacted soil, or installing drainage channels/tile.
Too Much Shade
Most grasses need at least 4-6 hours of direct sun daily. Excessive shade from trees, buildings, or other objects stresses turfgrass. If possible, prune back encroaching trees to open up the canopy.
Improper Fertilization
Fertilizing at the wrong time of year or using the wrong products can damage lawns. Apply fertilizer in the fall when grass plants are actively growing to fill up energy reserves before winter. Avoid weed & feed products.
Diagnosing Lawn Problems
It’s important to properly diagnose the cause of lawn damage before attempting solutions. Here are some tips for getting to the root of lawn problems:
- Examine the edges of damaged areas – uniform edges may indicate disease, while irregular shapes often mean insects or environmental stress.
- Check for signs of pests – look for chewed grass blades, tunnels, or bare patches.
- Pull up some grass – inspect the roots and soil. Black roots mean disease. Grubs feed on roots leaving them pruned.
- Do a screwdriver test – see if compacted soil prevents the tool from penetrating more than a few inches.
- Observe the pattern – diseases tend to occur in circular patterns spreading outwards.
Having an expert diagnose lawn problems can be extremely helpful, especially for identifying specific diseases and pests. County extension offices or local landscape professionals can often provide this service.
How to Fix a Dying Lawn
Once you’ve diagnosed the cause of lawn damage, it’s time to focus on restoration. Here are solutions to help bring your grass back to life.
Aerate and Dethatch
Aeration punches holes in the soil to alleviate compaction, improve drainage, and allow better root growth. Dethatching removes excess thatch buildup that chokes out the lawn. Do this in early fall or spring.
Overseed Bare Areas
Sprinkling grass seed over thin and bare spots in the lawn speeds up recovery. Use a seed mix matched to your existing grass type. Cover newly seeded areas with straw to retain moisture.
Control Lawn Diseases
Apply fungicides according to package instructions to combat common lawn diseases. For prevention, promote air circulation and avoid over-watering lawns.
Get Rid of Lawn Pests
Apply insecticide products containing trichlorfon, carbaryl, or halofenozide for grub control. Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and spinosad can control above ground insects. Target treatments to affected areas.
Improve Drainage
For wet areas, a French drain, sump pump, or gravel trenches can help divert excess moisture. Reduce compaction and aerate to allow better water penetration.
Adjust Watering Schedule
Water lawn in the early morning 1-2 times per week with about 1-1.5″ per session. Adjust as needed based on weather. Let soil dry between waterings to prevent disease.
Modify Fertilizer Program
Apply a balanced fertilizer in fall when grass is actively growing. Slow-release organic formulas provide a steady feeding over time. Avoid weed & feed products.
Reduce Shade
If possible, prune back encroaching trees to open up the canopy. For heavily shaded areas, consider alternative shade-tolerant groundcovers rather than grass.
Re-sod Damaged Areas
For large dead patches or extensive damage, removing the old grass and sodding over affected areas with new grass plugs can provide instant results.
Be Patient
It can take weeks or months for lawn treatments to take effect and for grass to fill back in fully. Continue proper maintenance practices and allow time for recovery.
Lawn Care Tips to Prevent Death and Disease
The best defense is a good offense when it comes to lawn care. Follow these tips to maintain healthy grass and avoid lawn damage:
- Mow high – around 3-4″ for cool season grass
- Sharpen mower blades at least once per year
- Aerate compacted soil in spring and fall
- Apply 1-1.5 lb nitrogen/1000 sq ft in early fall
- Seed bare spots and overseed in fall
- Water infrequently but deeply to encourage roots to grow down
- Monitor for pest problems and treat as needed
- Let grass recover before resuming heavy use of lawn after damage
When to Call a Professional Lawn Care Company
While many lawn issues can be addressed with do-it-yourself solutions, sometimes calling in the pros is the best option. Seek professional help for:
- Identifying specific lawn diseases
- Major drainage or grading issues
- Large-scale lawn renovations
- Severe pest infestations
- Lawn fungus or disease outside of your DIY control
- Overseeding large bare patches
- Precision fertilizer, pesticide, or herbicide applications
- If time or physical ability prohibit DIY work
Look for lawn care companies that employ certified technicians and focus on turf health using more organic approaches.
Cost to Restore a Dead Lawn
The cost to fix a dying or dead lawn ranges widely depending on the severity of damage and solutions used. Some typical average costs include:
| Lawn Restoration Service | Average Cost |
|---|---|
| Aeration | $75 – $200 per application |
| Dethatching | $75 – $300 per application |
| Overseeding | $100 – $500 per 1000 sq ft |
| Sodding | $0.25 – $0.90 per sq ft |
| Disease control application | $50 – $200 per application |
| Insect control application | $60 – $200 per application |
| Soil testing | $25 – $100 per test |
With significant lawn damage, renovations can cost $1000 or more. Ongoing lawn maintenance including mowing, fertilization, and pest control might run $200 – $500 per year for an average sized lawn.
Preventing Lawn Problems
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to lawn care. Here are some top tips to avoid issues proactively:
- Mow high – around 3-4″ tall for cool season grass
- Leave grass clippings on the lawn to feed it
- Use sharp mower blades for clean cuts
- Water deeply 1-2x per week early in the morning
- Apply compost or quality topsoil to improve soil
- Aerate compacted areas in spring and fall
- Overseed to fill in bare spots before they expand
- Apply pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weed seeds from germinating
- Fertilize lightly in fall and early spring
- Check regularly for pest problems
- Reduce shade from encroaching trees
- Allow grass to dry out between waterings
Following best practices for mowing, watering, soil care, fertilization, and pest management is key to maintaining a lush, healthy lawn and avoiding issues.
Early Signs of Lawn Distress
Catching lawn problems early is critical to treat issues before they escalate. Here are some early warning signs of a stressed lawn:
- Change in color – yellowing or browning
- Thinned out appearance
- Excessive drying out
- Leaf blades easily pulled out
- Footprints remaining visible
- Mushrooms or other fungi
- Presence of grubs, chinch bugs, or other pests
- Weed emergence, especially in bare spots
- Standing water or drainage issues
At the first signs of lawn distress, re-evaluate maintenance practices and diagnose the issue, then take corrective actions to restore health.
Alternative Groundcovers
While lush grass may be the ideal for many homeowners, it does require significant maintenance and watering. Some alternatives to consider:
- Clover – fixes nitrogen, requires less mowing
- Low-growing sedums or succulents – drought tolerant
- Ornamental grasses – attractive options, low maintenance
- Eco- or no-mow lawn mixes – special blends need less mowing
- Groundcovers like vinca minor or microclover – green up space with less work
- Hardscaping elements – mulch beds, stone patios, gravel
- Artificial turf -Installed cost but no ongoing maintenance
Consider your goals, needs, and level of maintenance you’re willing to provide when weighing alternatives to traditional grass.
Conclusion
While losing your lawn can be discouraging, solutions exist to nurse it back to health. Proper mowing, watering, fertilization, pest control, and soil care are key. If damage is severe, aeration, overseeding, or resodding may be needed along with improved maintenance going forward. With some time and TLC, you can get your grass off life support and thriving once again!
