As a stylist, determining the right length for a client’s cut is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. The length of the cut impacts the client’s style, manageability, and how often they need to come in for trims. Cutting too much off can be shocking, while leaving hair too long may not achieve the look the client is going for. So how do you find that perfect middle ground? How short is too short, and how long is too long when it comes to a cut? Let’s explore those questions.
What is Considered a Long Cut?
Hair length is subjective and depends on the client’s current length and desired look. However, generally:
– Hair that falls to the shoulders or longer is considered long for women. This includes cuts that reach the collarbones, hit mid-back, or go all the way down the back.
– Hair 2-3 inches or longer on top for men is considered longer. Men’s cuts are often worn shorter on the sides and back.
– Very long cuts for women extend well past the shoulders to the middle of the back or longer. Rapunzel length hair falls to the hips or longer.
– Long layers can provide movement and lightness to very long locks. Long bangs or face-framing layers are also popular with longer styles.
So in summary, long cuts tend to refer to shoulder length or longer for women and over 2 inches on top for men. Very long cuts for women extend down the back past the shoulders.
When is a Cut Considered Too Long?
At what point does long hair become too long? There a few signs that a cut has gone past stylish into the realm of impractical:
It’s Causing Inconvenience
Super long hair can become a hassle to manage. Constant tangling, taking forever to dry, weighing down the scalp, becoming easily tangled – these are all signs hair has gone past a comfortable or convenient length. Hair so long you trip or sit on it constantly is definitely past the point of being reasonable for day-to-day life.
It’s Causing Damage
In addition to being difficult to manage, overlong hair can become damaged. Split ends creep steadily up the hair shaft. Long, heavy styles can put strain on the follicles leading to shedding and thinness. Trying to detangle knots and matting from lengths past the mid-back can cause breakage. If your client’s current length is leading to damage, it’s time to trim those tresses.
It’s Outgrown the Client’s Lifestyle
Has your client’s long hair become incompatible with their lifestyle? Do they participate in sports or rigorous exercise where very long locks get in the way? Have they taken a fast-paced job where they no longer have time to style waist-length hair? Do they find themselves twisting their hair up into a bun every day? If so, their current length may be inappropriate for their day-to-day activities.
It’s Not Complementing Their Face Shape/Body Type
Sometimes hair can simply become too long for a client’s facial features or body type. An overlong style can overwhelm petite frames. All that length can make round or square face shapes appear even wider. Pay attention to your client’s proportions – extremely long hair may not be the most flattering look for their unique attributes.
When is a Cut Too Short?
Just as hair can become impractically long, some cuts end up shorter than intended. Signs a client’s cut has become too short include:
It’s Less Than an Inch
In most cases, clipping the hair shorter than an inch all over is too short for women. Even a pixie cut typically leaves 2-3 inches on top. For men, trimming shorter than a half inch with electric clippers risks scalp irritation for some hair types. Such close cuts also require very frequent trims to prevent a stubbly appearance as the hair grows out.
They’re Shocked/Upset by the Change
Some clients request very short styles they later regret. Signs you’ve cut off more than expected include surprise, silence, or remarks like “it’s shorter than I thought”. Tears are also a clue you clipped more than the client was ready for. If their reaction seems shocked rather than delighted, you likely exceeded their preferred length.
It’s Not Suiting Their Face/Body Type
An ultrashort cut may fail to compliment your client’s features. Crops that accentuate a long neck or angular face can appear overly severe. Soft, rounded faces sometimes need more length to balance full cheeks. Petite clients can look swamped in a short, boyish pixie. Consider your client’s unique attributes to determine if closely cropped hair is too extreme.
It’s High Maintenance to Style
Some short cuts rely heavily on styling products, frequent touch-ups, or careful blow-drying to look their best. Hair trimmed so short it sticks straight up or becomes cowlicked without ample products isn’t the most low-maintenance option. If your client seems overwhelmed by the styling demands of their new short do, the length may be too high-maintenance for their tastes.
Guidelines for Cut Lengths by Hair Type
Ideal haircut lengths vary based on hair texture and density. Here are some general guidelines for cut length by hair type:
Curly Hair
| Too Short | Less than 2 inches all over |
| Too Long | Past mid-back |
| Ideal Length | Shoulder length or longer with face-framing layers |
The weight of long locks can pull curls straight. Layers and shoulder length cuts maximize bounce and definition. Too-short crops exaggerate shrinkage.
Thick Hair
| Too Short | Crops above the jawline |
| Too Long | Hip length or longer |
| Ideal Length | Collarbone to armpit length with long layers |
Short crops can seem suffocated and bulky with thick density. Length and long layers slim thick hair. Avoid extremely long lengths that become overbearing.
Fine Hair
| Too Short | Pixie crops |
| Too Long | Beyond mid-back |
| Ideal Length | Chin to shoulder length with face-framing layers |
Fine hair can look sparse when cut very short. Added weight of long locks drags flat and reveals the scalp. Medium chops with light layers optimize fullness.
Straight Hair
| Too Short | Above the shoulders |
| Too Long | Hip length or longer |
| Ideal Length | Armpit to bra strap length with blunt ends or long layers |
The sleekness of straight hair shows off long cuts beautifully. Go shorter than the shoulders only for very dense hair. Avoid thin/flat ends from over-long lengths.
Wavy Hair
| Too Short | Pixie cuts |
| Too Long | Beyond mid-back |
| Ideal Length | Shoulder to armpit length with face-framing layers |
Pixie crops exaggerate cowlicks in wavy hair. Over-long styles drag waves flat. Medium chops encourage bend and movement.
How Often to Trim Different Lengths
Maintenance needs increase along with hair length. Here’s a general guide to trimming frequency at different lengths:
Short (above the shoulders):
– Trim every 4-6 weeks to maintain the shape.
– Short cuts grow out quickly and can appear shaggy or ragged if too much time passes between cuts.
Medium (shoulder to armpit length):
– Trim every 8-10 weeks to prevent splits and refresh the ends.
– Shoulder length cuts grow out more slowly but still need regular trims.
Long (bra strap to waist length):
– Trim every 12-16 weeks or once a season.
– Take off just 1/4″-1/2″ for maintenance.
– Use oils, masks, and gentle handling to keep ends healthy.
Very Long (tailbone and longer):
– Trim every 16-20 weeks or twice a year at most.
– Remove only split or damaged ends to retain length.
– Ultra-long hair remains a long commitment. Make sure your client is still on board!
Consulting with Clients on Cut Length
Having an open conversation helps set client expectations around cut length:
– Ask what they hope to achieve with the cut and their preferred amount of length removed.
– Give your professional opinion on their face shape, hair type, lifestyle and how it relates to cut length.
– For drastic changes, recommend going in stages over multiple appointments.
– Avoid surprises by showing the amount you’ll trim and getting a nod of consent.
– For unhappy clients, apologize and offer solutions like corrective layers, temporary extensions, or booking a quick follow-up.
Checking in with clients first and managing expectations avoids cut length mishaps!
Conclusion
Determining the perfect cut length is an art. Going too short or long can lead to regretted styles and maintenance challenges. Signs a cut has gone past the ideal length include damage, inconvenience, lack of suitability for the client’s features or lifestyle. Have candid conversations and tailor cuts based on hair type and density. Removes length gradually over time for major changes. With the right approach to assessing and discussing length, you can give clients cuts they’ll love!
