When dyeing your hair at home, it’s important to use the right amount of developer with the hair color for best results. Developer, also called hydrogen peroxide, helps open the cuticle of the hair so the color can deposit and achieve maximum vibrancy. Using too much or too little developer can impact the end result, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
What is hair developer and what does it do?
Developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, acts as an activator when mixed with hair dye. It oxidizes the color molecules in the dye, allowing them to penetrate the hair shaft for permanent, lasting color.
Specifically, developer works in the following ways:
- Opens the cuticle of the hair – The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. Developer causes the cuticle to swell and lift, allowing the dye molecules to be deposited inside the hair.
- Activates and oxidizes dye – Developer oxidizes the color pigment molecules, making them bigger so they become trapped within the hair shaft. This is what creates permanent color.
- Lightens hair – In higher volumes, developer lightens and lifts natural hair pigment so the dye result is brighter.
Without developer, the dye would simply coat the outside of the hair or wash out quickly. The developer allows for permanent, even color that lasts.
How much developer do I need?
The amount of developer you need depends on:
- The volume or strength of the developer
- The shade of dye you are using
- Your desired results – for example, if you want to lift or lighten hair
Developer typically comes in 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume strengths. Here is an overview of how much developer to use with different types of dye:
10 Volume Developer
- Use with permanent dye to deposit color with minimal lifting
- Mix equal parts dye and 10 volume developer (1:1 ratio)
20 Volume Developer
- Most commonly used with permanent dye for moderate lifting
- Mix equal parts dye and 20 volume developer (1:1 ratio)
30 Volume Developer
- Used with permanent dye when more lifting is desired
- Mix 1 part dye with 2 parts 30 volume developer (1:2 ratio)
40 Volume Developer
- Used with high lift dye for maximum lifting of hair pigment
- Mix 1 part dye with 2 parts 40 volume developer (1:2 ratio)
How to determine the right developer volume
Choosing the right developer volume depends on your natural hair color and type, as well as your desired end result.
For natural hair to dyed hair:
- 10 vol – little to no lift, deposit only
- 20 vol – mild to moderate lift
- 30 vol – moderate to high lift
- 40 vol – high lift for stubborn grays/dark hair
For dyed or highlighted hair:
- 10 vol – Deposit color only with no lift
- 20 vol – Equal parts dye and developer for full coverage
- 30 vol – Mild lift for highlights
- 40 vol – Use carefully for lighter highlights
Always read the manufacturer’s recommendations, as some permanent dyes are formulated for use with specific developer strengths. As a general rule:
- For darker shades on light hair, use 10 or 20 volume
- For lighter shades or color lift, use 30 or 40 volume
- For hair that has been chemically relaxed or damaged, stick to lower volumes like 10 or 20
Does more developer mean more lift?
Yes, the higher volume or percentage of peroxide in developer, the more lifting action it provides. Here’s a breakdown:
- 10 volume – 3% peroxide – Little to no lift, deposits color
- 20 volume – 6% peroxide – Mild to moderate lift
- 30 volume – 9% peroxide – Moderate lift
- 40 volume – 12% peroxide – High lift
So while higher volumes do mean more lift, it’s important not to overdo it. Using a developer strength that is too high can damage the hair. Always opt for the lowest volume possible to achieve your desired results.
Should I use equal parts dye and developer?
In most cases, yes – you should mix equal parts dye and developer. The most common developer-to-dye ratios are:
- 1:1 ratio – For permanent dye with 10 or 20 volume developer
- 1:2 ratio – For permanent dye with 30 or 40 volume developer
A 1:1 ratio of dye to developer will give you the truest color. Diluting the dye too much with extra developer can result in a lighter or less vibrant end result.
However, in some cases the manufacturer may specify slightly different mixing ratios. Always follow the directions on the hair dye packaging for the most accurate mixing instructions.
Helpful tips for mixing developer
Here are some useful tips for mixing developer with hair dye:
- Shake the developer bottle first before mixing – this helps evenly distribute the peroxide.
- Always mix the dye and developer in a non-metal bowl.
- Stir gently but thoroughly – don’t whip too much air into the mixture.
- Make sure your measurements are precise for the ratio indicated.
- Mix small batches at a time so you use it immediately before it oxidizes.
- Wear gloves – dye and developer can stain skin.
What if I use too much or too little developer?
Getting the developer-to-dye ratio right is important for the best results. Here’s what happens if you use too much or too little developer:
Too much developer
- Can lighten or dilute the final shade
- Can cause damage from overprocessing
- May not deposit dye effectively
- Can leave hair feeling dry or brittle
Too little developer
- Won’t properly lift your natural hair pigment
- Can result in spotty, uneven color
- May fade quicker than desired
- Won’t allow dye to penetrate fully into hair
Getting the mix right takes some practice. When in doubt, start with equal parts dye and developer. You can always tweak the ratio on your next application if needed.
Can I reuse leftover dye and developer?
It’s not recommended to reuse or save any leftover hair dye or developer. Hair color is formulated for one-time use. Once mixed and exposed to oxygen, the developers begins to oxidize the dye – so leftovers won’t give you the right results.
Your best bet is to mix dye and developer as precisely as possible for each application, so you don’t have much excess product left. Any leftovers should be discarded after one use.
How long does the dye and developer mixture last?
Once you mix together the dye and developer, you should use the mixture immediately and discard any remaining mixture after application. Here’s why:
- Oxidation begins – The developer starts to activate the color pigments.
- Chemical reactions occur – The mixture destabilizes and its integrity changes.
- Color fades – Longer exposure to oxygen fades or dulls dye results.
- Effectiveness decreases – After about an hour, lifting power diminishes.
For maximum color vibrancy, apply mixed dye to hair right away. Don’t let it sit for more than an hour before use. Remember the clock is ticking as soon as you combine the products.
Does developer expire?
Like hair dye, developer does have an expiration date and oxidizes over time. To get the most out of your products:
- Check the expiration or “best by” date before use
- Store developer in a cool, dark place
- Keep the container sealed tightly
- Discard if the liquid looks or smells abnormal
- Don’t use expired developer – purchase a fresh supply
Developer lasts about 1-2 years when stored properly. Mark your calendar when you open it, and write the expiration date so you remember when to toss it.
Signs your developer is expired
Here are some signs your hair developer is past its prime and needs to be replaced:
- Date on the package has passed
- Liquid looks darker or murky
- Strange smell – should smell slightly acidic
- Fizzing or bubbling in the bottle
- Bottle cap is loose or leaking
- Burning or stinging when applied to hair
- Hair color results seem weak or off
Using expired developer is a safety hazard and can damage your hair. When in any doubt, it’s best to discard old developer and start fresh.
Does developer go bad if not sealed properly?
Yes, developer oxidizes and goes bad more quickly if it is not sealed properly between uses. To maximize freshness:
- Wipe and clean the bottle’s opening before sealing
- Replace the inner cap tightly after each use
- Secure the outer cover firmly
- Store in a cool, dry location away from light
- Write the opening date on the bottle
- Use within 6 months of opening for best quality
A loose or improperly sealed developer container allows oxygen to get in, causing the developer to destabilize and lose effectiveness faster. For best hair color results, keep your developer sealed airtight.
The takeaway
It’s important to use the right proportions of developer and hair dye for vibrant, healthy color results. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and perform a patch test first before applying to your full head. With some practice, you’ll learn how to mix custom ratios to achieve your perfect shade.
The developer-to-dye relationship is an art and a science! Have fun exploring different mixing techniques until you find your ideal formula.
