A merry widow corset is a type of women’s corset that was popular in the early 20th century. It is characterized by its low plunging front, curvaceous cincher belt, and straps attached to stockings. The merry widow was designed to accentuate and lift the bust while still providing a slimmer waistline. It created an “S-curve” silhouette that was fashionable during the Edwardian and early Victorian eras.
History of the Merry Widow Corset
The merry widow corset has its origins in corset designs from the late 19th century. During this time, corsets with shoulder straps became more popular. These corsets helped lift the bust while still providing waist reduction and smoothing of the torso. Corsetieres like Inez Gaches-Sarraute developed designs with separate bra cups and promoted more functional corsets for women’s health.
The merry widow was patented in 1952 by the Warners Brothers Corset Company. It was designed by Mrs. Lucile Carlisle and named after the popular operetta “The Merry Widow.” The operetta featured glamorous costumes worn by actress Lily Elsie, which helped inspire the low and curvy design of the merry widow corset.
The merry widow corset became widely fashionable after the release of the operetta. Women loved how it accentuated their figures. Richer women often owned several merry widow corsets in different colors to match their outfits. It remained popular into the 1910s as hobble skirts replaced larger Edwardian skirts. After World War I, corsets in general became less popular as modern fashion embraced more slender, boyish silhouettes. But the merry widow continued being worn into the 1920s as shapewear to achieve a curvy figure under looser, dropped-waist dresses.
Late 19th Century Corset Designs
The merry widow corset evolved from corset designs in the late 1800s:
- Corsets with shoulder straps became more common and allowed more lift and bust support
- Inez Gaches-Sarraute patented functional corsets with separated bra cups and promoted corsets for health
- S-bend corsets created an S-curve silhouette with a prominent bust and rear
- Tight-lacing fell out of fashion in favor of more flexible, improved corsetry
These innovations shifted corsets from restrictive compression to Figure-enhancing undergarments. They paved the way for the merry widow’s signature slim-waisted yet voluptuous look.
The “Merry Widow” Operetta
The merry widow corset is named after a popular operetta:
- The Merry Widow premiered in Vienna in 1905, composed by Franz Lehár
- It featured glamorous costumes designed by Lily Elsie, including low corsets and fine gowns
- The story involved a rich widow courted by many suitors in the European elite
- The play was immensely successful and toured internationally for years
- Its fashions inspired the low-cut, curvy merry widow corset still popular today
The costumes of The Merry Widow captured the lush sensuality of early 1900s fashion. When the Warners Brothers’ corset later took its name, they capitalized on the operetta’s widespread popularity and luxe aesthetic.
Design and Structure of the Merry Widow Corset
The merry widow had several design features that created an hourglass silhouette:
Plunging Neckline
The deep front opening dropped far below the breastbone to lift and center the breasts. This enhanced cleavage and created dramatic curves in front.
Cincher Belt
A built-in cincher sat above the natural waist, tightening at the sides to pinch the waist. This emphasized the smallest part of the torso.
Full Hips
The bottom flared out over the hips and rear, which accentuated an S-curve shape from front to back.
Boning
Vertical steel boning molded the figure and prevented wrinkling over the abdomen and sides.
Shoulder Straps
Adjustable shoulder straps stabilized the corset, provided bust support, and upheld modesty.
Garters
Silk garters attached to the bottom of the corset could fasten to stockings to hold them up.
Together, these elements created an alluring, highly feminine silhouette. The construction lifted the breasts, narrowed the waist, and rounded the hips for voluptuous curves. Women often wore merry widows with tight sleeves and skirts to further display their shape.
Putting On a Merry Widow Corset
Getting into a merry widow corset required a careful process:
1. Undress Down to Undergarments
Women would first remove their outer clothing, shoes, and accessories down to a lightweight chemise or combination underwear.
2. Prepare the Corset
Make sure the corset’s front busk closures are open and the laces are fully loosened. Place the shoulder straps out of the way.
3. Step Into the Corset
Holding the corset open, step into it so it envelops your body with the back hole positioned correctly.
4. Close the Front Busks
Starting from the bottom, close the hook-and-eye front closures one by one until reaching the top underneath the breasts.
5. Tighten the Back Laces
With the corset wrapped around front, have a maid pull the back laces very tight to further close the corset.
6. Adjust the Straps
Position the shoulder straps over your shoulders. Adjust them to take up any slack.
7. Smooth the Corset
Make sure the corset is smoothly fitted with no wrinkles or folds. The boning helps keep it formed snugly to your curves.
Putting on a merry widow corset took effort. But once on, it provided an extremely curvaceous silhouette women desired.
Context and Culture of the Merry Widow Era
The merry widow corset was donned by women in the early 1900s during a transformative cultural period:
The Edwardian Era
The merry widow arose during the Edwardian era, named after Britain’s King Edward VII. This period from 1901-1910 saw increasing women’s rights along with elegant mainstream fashions before World War I.
Rise of Women’s Independence
More women gained education, jobs, and independence from strict Victorian expectations. The “New Woman” emerged as freer-thinking and outgoing.
Suffrage Movement
The women’s suffrage movement spread worldwide. By 1910, women in several countries could vote, run for office, and influence politics.
Early Hollywood Cinema
Silent films captivated the public with glamorous stars like Theda Bara. On-screen fashion spread new styles rapidly to mass audiences.
More Revealing Clothing
Women’s daywear and evening gowns became less restrictive. Lower necklines, sheer fabrics, sleeves, and raised hemlines emerged.
The merry widow evoked this new woman: stylish and sexually alluring, yet commanding increased freedom and power.
Everyday Use of the Merry Widow Corset
Women wore merry widow corsets for many occasions, making them an essential wardrobe item:
Fashion
The merry widow was an on-trend garment for the Edwardian socialite. It was often brightly colored and tailored to complement luxurious outfits.
Outerwear
It served as shapewear underneath luxurious tea gowns, dresses, and suits with tight bodices to mold the fashionable S-curve.
Evenings Out
At dinner parties, dances, and the theater, it uplifted and shaped the figure beneath opulent evening wear.
Intimacy
Boudoir scenes reveal men’s attraction to the corset’s sexy silhouette. It lent allure underneath sheer negligees.
Athletics
It even appeared in early women’s sports like cycling and tennis, worn discreetly beneath blouses and skirts.
Well-to-do Edwardian women likely possessed several merry widow corsets for wearing on different occasions.
The Merry Widow Corset in Pop Culture
The merry widow corset has been featured in many iconic pop culture works since its debut:
The Merry Widow Operetta
The original operetta by Franz Lehár sparked a widespread merry widow craze after its 1905 Vienna premiere.
Gone With the Wind Film
Scarlett O’Hara wears a merry widow-style corset in the 1939 film when she vows to never go hungry again.
Titanic Film
Rose’s corseted gowns with low, rounded necklines in the 1997 film evoke merry widow style.
Art Nouveau
The corset’s sinuous S-curve suit Art Nouveau motifs in Alphonse Mucha’s posters and illustrations.
Burlesque
Merry widow-style bustiers and garter belts persist as iconic striptease costumes.
Even today, the merry widow corset’s glamour and sensuality inspires nostalgic pop culture interpretations of the early 1900s.
Merry Widow Corset Controversies
While widely popular, the merry widow corset also stirred controversies about women’s fashions:
Immodest Design
Its low and clinging fit shocked conservatives. Clergy preached against tightlacing and revealing clothing.
Constraints on Movement
New athletic pursuits for women conflicted with restrictive corsets. Doctors warned of health hazards.
Objectification Debate
Some said corsets commoditized women into sex objects. Supporters viewed it as female self-expression.
Class Tensions
Only wealthy women could afford quality corsets. Some criticized them as frivolous indulgences amid labor rights struggles.
These simmering tensions presaged 1920s fashions that rejected corsets for comfort and mobility.
Collecting Vintage Merry Widow Corsets
Vintage enthusiasts covet original merry widow corsets from the 1900-1920s era:
- Prices range widely from $100 for wearable shapewear to over $1000 for designer pieces in excellent condition.
- Designer labels like Sears Roebuck, Warner’s, Gossard, and Twilfit command higher prices.
- Common colors are black, white, pink, red, and light pastels.
- Look for delicate materials like lace, silk satin, ribbon, and bows.
- Metal hardware should be rust-free and have decorative engravings or enameling.
Admired for their extravagance and sensuality, vintage merry widow corsets appeal to collectors seeking to own a decadent piece of fashion history.
Conclusion
The merry widow corset embodied the lush opulence of turn-of-the-century fashion. With its plunging front and cinched waist, it created a spectacular hourglass silhouette that captivated women’s fashion for over two decades. This iconic corset remains one of the most enduring symbols of Edwardian elegance and sensuality. Vintage collectors still prize original merry widow corsets today as extravagant mementos of the past.