Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is commonly used in skin care products as a chemical exfoliant. It is known for its effectiveness at reducing fine lines, wrinkles, acne breakouts and improving skin texture and tone. But how long do the effects of glycolic acid actually last? Here’s a look at the longevity of glycolic acid and how to make it last longer.
How Glycolic Acid Works
Glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. This allows the dead cells to be shed more easily, revealing the fresh new skin underneath. Glycolic acid is also able to penetrate deeply into the skin where it boosts collagen production and helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
The exfoliating effects of glycolic acid make it great for treating:
- Acne and clogged pores – By removing dead skin cells that can clog pores.
- Dull, uneven skin tone – By increasing skin cell turnover to reveal brighter skin.
- Fine lines and wrinkles – By increasing collagen production.
- Hyperpigmentation – By enhancing cellular turnover to fade dark spots.
How Often You Should Use Glycolic Acid
When you first start using glycolic acid, it’s best to use it just 1-2 times per week. This allows your skin to get adjusted to the effects slowly. Using it too frequently in the beginning can cause irritation, redness and peeling.
Once your skin has adjusted, you can increase usage to every other day or daily. But you still want to be cautious not to overdo it. Using glycolic acid daily is usually not necessary or recommended.
The ideal frequency often depends on the percentage of glycolic acid in your product:
| Glycolic Acid Percentage | Recommended Frequency |
|---|---|
| 5-10% | Daily |
| 10-15% | Every other day |
| 15-30% | 1-2 times per week |
| 30-50% | Once every 1-2 weeks |
Higher percentages should only be used infrequently as they are more likely to cause irritation and damage to the skin if overused.
How Long the Effects Last
Glycolic acid provides both short-term and long-term skin benefits. However, the longevity of the effects really depends on how frequently you are using it.
Short-Term Effects
When used once, glycolic acid will provide exfoliation and glow-enhancing effects for 24-48 hours afterwards. You can expect to see improvements in:
- Surface exfoliation
- Brightness and radiance
- Texture and smoothness
- Reduction in fine lines
- Unclogging of pores
However, once that glycolic acid treatment has had time to complete its work, your skin will return to its baseline condition. So the immediate, short-term effects only last for about 2 days max.
Long-Term Effects
When glycolic acid is used consistently over an extended period of time, you will start to see the cumulative long-term benefits. Regular exfoliation will allow for continuous renewal of the skin layers. And the collagen-boosting effects become more pronounced with continued use.
With regular use (such as daily, every other day or 1-2 times per week depending on your skin), you can expect to see improvements in:
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Hyperpigmentation and age spots
- Skin tone and texture
- Elasticity and firmness
- Breakouts and clogged pores
- Dull, uneven complexion
These types of visible changes to the deeper layers of skin can take 4-6 weeks to start seeing, but will then continue to improve over time with sustained use.
Tips to Make Glycolic Acid Last Longer
Here are some tips to help make the effects of your glycolic acid products last longer between treatments:
1. Apply to clean, dry skin
Glycolic acid will work best when applied to a clean, dry face with no other products on it. The glycolic acid can then absorb deeply into the skin without any barrier.
2. Use once a day at night
Applying glycolic acid before bed allows it to work overnight while you sleep. This gives it plenty of time to exfoliate and renew the skin cells.
3. Avoid harsh cleansers
Stick to a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser in the mornings to avoid stripping your skin. Harsh soaps can diminish the effects of glycolic acid over time.
4. Apply a moisturizer afterwards
Glycolic acid can be drying, so make sure to apply a hydrating moisturizer afterwards. This helps replenish moisture and support your skin’s barrier.
5. Use once every 3 days
Give your skin a couple days break in between glycolic acid treatments. This helps prevent over-exfoliation so the benefits last longer.
6. Avoid excessive sun exposure
Too much unprotected sun exposure can counteract the positive effects of glycolic acid. Make sure to apply an SPF 30+ sunscreen during the day.
7. Use lower percentages
Higher percents like 30-50% will provide longer-lasting results. But they are also more irritating. Stick to 10% or lower to allow for daily or every other day use.
Can You Become Resistant to Glycolic Acid?
Over time, some people may develop a tolerance to glycolic acid. This means you may no longer see the same level of results. There are a couple reasons this can happen:
- Skin becomes resistant – Your skin cells might not exfoliate as readily in response to glycolic acid.
- Skin thickens – Collagen production can thicken the skin over time, making it more resistant to the penetration of glycolic acid.
If you notice glycolic acid is no longer working as well, try the following adjustments:
- Increase percentage – Go up to a 15% or 20% product if you were using 10% previously.
- Short contact therapy – Leave a 20-30% peel on for just 2-5 minutes before rinsing off.
- Take a break for 2-4 weeks – This allows your skin to “reset” and become more responsive again.
What Are the Side Effects?
Glycolic acid is generally well-tolerated, but there are some potential side effects to be aware of:
Dryness and Flaking
Glycolic acid removes the outer layer of skin, so dryness and flaking are common side effects. Reduce application frequency and moisturize well to manage this.
Redness and Irritation
Too much exfoliation can cause redness, stinging, itching and irritation. Discontinue use if this occurs. Allow skin to heal before trying a lower percentage.
Increased Sun Sensitivity
Glycolic acid causes photosensitivity, so your skin will burn more easily in the sun. Wear SPF 30+ sunscreen whenever exposed.
Darkened Pigmentation
In some cases, glycolic acid can actually darken pigmented areas if you have a darker skin tone. Discontinue use if this occurs.
Who Should Avoid Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid isn’t suitable for everyone. The following groups should avoid using it:
- Sensitive skin – Glycolic acid may be too irritating.
- Dry skin – Can increase dryness without proper moisturization.
- Darker skin tones – Increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Pregnant/nursing women – Lack of safety research for unborn babies and infants.
- Accutane users – Too irritating when combined with this acne medication.
- Eczema – May worsen flare-ups.
Children under 12 should also avoid glycolic acid, along with those with an allergy or sensitivity.
Conclusion
Glycolic acid provides fantastic exfoliating and anti-aging benefits for the skin. When used properly, it can continuously renew and smooth the skin’s texture, fade dark spots, reduce fine lines and unclog pores. Just keep in mind that the immediate effects only last about 2 days. Long-term improvements require consistent use over 4-6 weeks.
Be cautious not to overuse glycolic acid, as this can cause irritation and damage. Allow your skin adequate time between treatments for the best results. And enhance longevity by applying SPF, moisturizing afterwards and using lower percentages when starting out.
