Figuring out how much fabric you need for a sewing project can seem daunting, but it’s actually quite straightforward once you know the steps. Here’s a simple guide to calculating fabric yardage for any project.
Quick Answers
Here are some quick answers to common questions about calculating fabric yardage:
- Measurements: You need accurate measurements of your pattern pieces to calculate yardage.
- Yardage charts: Many pattern envelopes include yardage charts to estimate fabric needed.
- Pattern layout: Consider the pattern layout and if pieces will be cut on the bias or crossgrain.
- Fabric width: Pay attention to fabric width; most fabrics are 40-45″ wide.
- Estimating extras: Add 10-15% extra for matching plaids/patterns and make mistakes.
- Nap and repeat: Allow extra fabric for working with nap and large repeats.
Step 1: Take Measurements
The first step is to take measurements of all the pattern pieces needed to make your project. This includes the main fabric pieces, interfacing, lining, pockets, straps, bias binding, etc. Add up the measurements for each pattern piece, making sure to account for multiple pieces when you are cutting two fronts or four sleeves for example.
Be very precise with your measurements. Measure each pattern piece individually from the cutting line, and make sure to note pieces that need to be cut on the fold. Record the exact measurements in inches or centimeters. Having meticulous measurements is crucial for accurately calculating fabric yardage.
Tips for Measuring Pattern Pieces
- Use a flexible cloth tape measure.
- Note pieces to be cut on the fold with a double asterisk ** next to the measurement.
- Mark any pattern pieces that need to be cut multiple times.
- Add up widths for oddly shaped pieces.
Step 2: Determine Yardage
Once you have measurements for all of your pattern pieces, you can calculate the minimum fabric yardage required. To determine yardage, you’ll need to know the standard width of the fabric you are using, usually 40-45 inches wide or 110-115cm.
Take your total combined measurement for all pattern pieces and divide that by the fabric width. This will give you the minimum number of fabric widths needed. Generally, round this number up to the nearest quarter yard or tenth of a meter to give yourself a bit of extra fabric.
For example, if your pattern pieces add up to 70 inches, and your fabric is 45 inches wide:
70 inches (total pattern piece measurement) divided by 45 inches (fabric width) = 1.55
Round this up to the nearest quarter yard: 1.75 yards
So for this example with a 45″ wide fabric and 70″ of pattern pieces, you would need to purchase 2 yards of fabric.
Fabric Yardage Formula
Total Inches of Pattern Pieces / Fabric Width in Inches = Yards needed
Step 3: Pattern Layout
Once you know roughly how much fabric you’ll need based on your measurements, it’s time to think about the pattern layout. Sketch out how you plan to lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric.
This will help you visualize if you’ll need more fabric to accommodate the grainlines and cutting layout. For example, some pieces may need extra yardage if they have to be cut on the bias or you have to do creative piecing to fit everything on the fabric.
You may discover you need more fabric than your measurements indicated once you map out the pattern layout. Don’t be afraid to get extra yardage to give yourself more flexibility when cutting your pieces.
Pattern Layout Tips
- Check grainline direction on all pieces.
- Note large pattern pieces that may require extra fabric.
- Align pieces to maximize use of fabric width.
- Identify pieces that will need to be pieced together.
Step 4: Add Fabric Extras
In addition to the basic measurements, you’ll need to calculate extra yardage for a few factors:
- Matching plaids, stripes, or patterns: Add 10-15% for pattern matching and repeat.
- Nap: Allow extra yardage for fabric naps and directional patterns.
- Mistakes: Purchase a little extra in case you make a cutting error.
- Pre-washing: If pre-washing, add extra for shrinkage.
- Bias binding/piping: Calculate yardage needed for binding, trim, etc.
Don’t skimp on purchasing extra yardage. It’s always better to end up with leftover fabric than run short halfway through your project. Build in an extra 10-15% to your total yardage calculation to be safe.
Step 5: Final Yardage
Once you’ve calculated your basic yardage needed, sketched out pattern placement, and added extras, you’re ready to determine the final yardage to purchase.
Write down your final total yardage number and bring this with you when shopping for fabric. Also bring your fabric width measurement, as you may find the fabric in different widths than you assumed.
Purchase the full yardage calculated even if it seems like a lot of fabric. Trust your measurements and resist the urge to round down. You’ll be glad to have the extra when cutting your pieces.
Tips for Purchasing Fabric
- Bring your written yardage estimate when shopping.
- Note the width of the actual fabric.
- Buy the full amount even if it seems excessive.
- Don’t substitute a different width fabric unless re-calculating.
- Pick up extra matching thread, buttons, etc.
How to Calculate Fabric Yardage for Specific Projects
While the steps are generally the same for any project, calculating fabric yardage for certain garments and crafts has some unique considerations. Here are fabric calculations for a few common sewing projects.
Dress or Top
For a dress or blouse pattern, in addition to your main pieces, remember to calculate yardage needed for:
- Interfacing for neckline, hems, etc.
- Contrast fabric if it includes color blocking.
- Bias binding or piping.
- Lining if it will be lined.
Pay attention to pattern pieces that need to be cut on the bias, as they require more fabric width. For maxi or full skirt dresses allow extra yardage for swirling the skirt while dancing!
Pants or Shorts
To determine the fabric needed for pants or shorts, measure pattern pieces individually and total:
- Front and back pant pieces.
- Waistband, straps, belt loops.
- Lining if fully or partially lined.
- Pocket linings if using a pocketing fabric.
Remember that pants are often cut with the legs continuous, so measure this distance as one long piece. Allow extra yardage for matching plaids at side seams.
Skirt
For skirts, calculate yardage for:
- Front, back, side pieces.
- Waistband and waist facing.
- Lining if needed.
- Interfacing for waistband.
- Button loops, buttons, zipper.
Mark skirt pieces to be cut on the fold. For full, circular skirts double the yardage needed for the pattern to give it beautiful drape and flutter.
Jacket
Jackets and coats require significant yardage. Measure pattern and add extras for:
- Outer fabric pieces – front, back, sides, sleeves, hood, etc.
- Interfacing – chest, hems, cuffs, lapels, under collar.
- Lining.
- Pocketing.
- Rib knit for cuffs and hem.
- Buttons and closures.
Pay close attention to jacket lengths, sleeve lengths, and any extra pattern piece options. Jackets often require 3 yards of fabric or more.
How to Calculate Fabric for Home Decor Projects
Fabric yardage calculations are also important for upholstery, drapery, and other home decor projects. Here are some tips:
Upholstery
- Measure furniture height, width, and depth.
- For tufted furniture, add 15% more fabric.
- Match repeat patterns and fabric naps.
- Purchase extra yardage for mistakes.
- Estimate cushion/welting yardage separately.
Drapes
- Calculate window lengths and widths.
- For pinch pleat drapes, multiply width by 2.5 – 3.
- Purchase extra to line drapes and for hems, rod pockets, overlap.
- Get twice the length needed for floor-length drapes.
Quilts
- Sketch quilt layout and block sizes.
- Calculate total inches of blocks.
- Add yardage for sashing strips, borders, binding.
- Get extra for piecing errors and shrinkage.
- Purchase backing fabric 2-3″ larger than top on all sides.
Tips for Calculating Tricky Fabrics
Specialty fabrics like velvet, lace, knits, and heavy wools require some extra planning when estimating yardage:
- Velvet: Allow extra yardage for nap layout, pattern placement, and mistakes.
- Lace: Purchase at least 1.5 times the yardage needed to allow for intricate cutting.
- Knits: No need to add sewing ease, but get extra for ripping out stitches.
- Wools: Check yardage needed for matching plaids or stripes.
- Sheers: Get extra to line sheer fabrics and underlay patterns.
For fabrics like velvet and lace where the fabric itself is expensive, build in plenty of extra yardage in your estimate to avoid costly shortages. Always round up instead of rounding down.
Conclusion
Figuring out fabric yardage is an essential sewing skill that improves with practice. While it involves some calculations, the process gets easier once you know the steps. Always measure meticulously, sketch your layout, and build in extras.
Having the right amount of fabric can make or break your sewing project. Avoid frustration by purchasing adequate yardage for your next creation. Refer back to these tips anytime you need to determine how much fabric to buy.
With some planning and extra yardage for insurance, you can confidently begin cutting out pieces knowing you have enough fabric. Your next sewing project will be a success!
